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Via Ferrata Rino Pisetta - Dain Piccolo

Valle dei Laghi
Category
Difficulty
Difficult
Duration
5:00
Duration in hours
Distance
5.4
Distance in km
Status
open
WSEN
Suggested period
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec

The rocky pillar of Dain Piccolo closes the Sarca Valley to the north, towering above the town of Sarche and Lake Toblino.  It is difficult, long and challenging

The sheer wall of  Dain Piccolo has witnessed some of the most exhilarating feats in climbing, from the masterpiece of the Canna d’Organo freed by Bruno Detassis to the extreme modern routes by Larcher and co..

To the far right of the SE wall a via ferrata was created in 1982 and dedicated to the mountaineer Rino Pisetta.  The bolted route is the most challenging in all the Sarca Valley and one of the most difficult in the entire Alps. The continuous exposure, limited number of holds, and length, mean that it requires basic climbing technique as well as athletic training. The first section is deliberately difficult, giving you a chance to understand the nature of the ferrata and if needs be, leave by the escape route, as from here on abandoning the ferrata becomes challenging and dangerous. The route leaves indelible memories with its smooth limestone slabs risingy sheer above Lake Toblino.

 

Further information and useful links

Facing a via ferrata requires knowledge of the right technique of progression and some training. If you want to try out this experience for the first time or check the use of the via ferrata set, we recommend that you contact one of our mountain guides: Guides – Via ferratas with the experts 

For further information on routes, activities, events and accommodation at lake Garda: Garda Trentino - +39 0464 554444

 

Route info
Difficult
Route number
Distance
5,4 km
Duration
5 h 00 min
Altitude difference (+)
800 m
Altitude difference (-)
800 m
Physical effort
Scenary
Highest point
967 m
Lowest point
255 m
Suggestions

The view from the summit covers the entire Sarca Valley, Lake Cavedine, the Marocche of Dro, Drena Castle and in the distance, Monte Brione and Lake Garda.

Safety guidelines

Safety Tips 

  1. Only do the via ferrata if you are reasonably fit and in excellent health.
  2. Do not do the via ferrata in bad weather, especially if it looks like a storm is coming.
  3. Do not do the via ferrata alone: if you have an accident nobody will be able to call for help.
  4. The risk of rock falls increases if there are others on the via ferrata or with wind or rain.
  5. Always check route conditions; in winter you may find snow and ice.
  6. Use proper safety gear (helmet, harness, ferrata kit with double self-locking carabiners and energy absorbing systems). Put on your helmet once you get near to the wall in case of rock falls.
  7. During progression always keep both carabiners clipped onto the safety cable and when you pass the anchor points make sure at least one carabiner is clipped on to each safety cable.
  8. Only one person may be on any length of cable between two anchor points.
  9. Wear clothing and hiking boots suited to the altitude, the season and the length of the route and ferrata gloves.
  10. Pay special attention on the easy parts, where there are no cables.
  11. Always check the condition of the bolts and cables on the wall as they can suffer damage in bad weather.
  12. Carefully evaluate the crowding conditions and the state of preservation of the safety gear on the via ferrata. Beware, YOU are ultimately and solely responsible for undertaking a via ferrata safely and responsibly.

Emergency telephone number 112.

 

The information on this chart is subject to inevitable variations, so this means that none of the indications are absolute. It is not entirely possible to avoid giving inexact or imprecise information, given how quickly environmental and weather conditions can change. For this reason, we decline any responsibility for changes which the user may encounter. In any case, the hiker is advised to check the conditions of the places, environment and weather before setting out.

Punto di partenza
Sarche
Directions

Access

From the roundabout in Sarche follow the road for Madonna di Campiglio for just 50 m, then turn right into a narrow street, which leads to the car park (signposted Via Ferrata). Follow the directions along the trail through the woods, across the base of the Piccolo Dain crag as far as the start of the ferrata marked by a metal plaque.

Ascent

Climb a first vertical wall bolted with cables and at the end of which you canchoose to turn back by taking the bolted trail to the right (1). An exposedtraverse (2) leads to a system of slabs after which you come to a great pillar (3).Head up the pillar, first along the left ridge and then up the centre, until youcome to the log book (4) at the top of the pillar: after this point the route to thesummit is less demanding.

Return

Head north along a steep trail and then a dirt track until you get to thevillage of Ranzo. At the column of San Vigilio take the trail on the leftwhich leads down under the south face of Piccolo Dain. Short sectionsbolted with cables allow you to descend over rocky outcrops and reachthe steep trail which leads down to Sarche.

public transportation

Sarche is connected by the intercity bus line 205 (Riva del Garda – Sarche – Trento to the other places in Garda Trentino.

Up-to-date information on timetables and routes.

 

How to get there

Sarche is about 23 kms from Riva del Garda and Torbole, 17 from Arco. Follow the directions to Trento / SS 45 bis: you pass by Ceniga, Dro and Pietramurata. Once in Sarche, at the roundabout, follow the directions to Madonna di Campiglio / Comano Terme; after 50m, just opposite the gas station, turn right (sign P - Via ferrata Rino Pisetta). 

Find out how to reach Garda Trentino.

 

Where to park

Parking next to the main road between the two roundabouts in Sarche or in Via Caffaro.

You need to wear the right clothing and take the proper gear when you go hiking in the mountains. Even on relatively short easy outings make sure to take all you need so you don't run into trouble if things take an unexpected turn, for example a storm blows up or you have a sudden drop in energy levels.

What should you absolutely have with you on a via ferrata tour?

  • rucksack (25/30L capacity) for a day trip
  • technical mountain clothing  
  • hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole  
  • via ferrata gear  
  • harness  
  • helmet  
  • gloves  
  • pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)  
  • a length of rope (recommended)
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