The rocky pillar of Dain Piccolo closes the Sarca Valley to the north, towering above the town of Sarche and Lake Toblino. It is difficult, long and challenging
The sheer wall of Dain Piccolo has witnessed some of the most exhilarating feats in climbing, from the masterpiece of the Canna d’Organo freed by Bruno Detassis to the extreme modern routes by Larcher and co..
To the far right of the SE wall a via ferrata was created in 1982 and dedicated to the mountaineer Rino Pisetta. The bolted route is the most challenging in all the Sarca Valley and one of the most difficult in the entire Alps. The continuous exposure, limited number of holds, and length, mean that it requires basic climbing technique as well as athletic training. The first section is deliberately difficult, giving you a chance to understand the nature of the ferrata and if needs be, leave by the escape route, as from here on abandoning the ferrata becomes challenging and dangerous. The route leaves indelible memories with its smooth limestone slabs risingy sheer above Lake Toblino.
Facing a via ferrata requires knowledge of the right technique of progression and some training. If you want to try out this experience for the first time or check the use of the via ferrata set, we recommend that you contact one of our mountain guides: www.gardatrentino.it
For further information on routes, activities, events and accommodation at lake Garda: APT Garda Trentino, Tel. +39 0464 554444 - www.gardatrentino.it
Only do the via ferrata if you are reasonably fit and in excellent health.
Do not do the via ferrata in bad weather, especially if it looks like a storm is coming.
Do not do the via ferrata alone: if you have an accident nobody will be able to call for help.
The risk of rock falls increases if there are others on the via ferrata or with wind or rain.
Always check route conditions; in winter you may find snow and ice on some routes which make progression dangerous.
Use proper safety gear (helmet, harness, ferrata kit with double self-locking carabiners and energy absorbing systems); put on your helmet once you get near to the wall. Rocks might fall before you get to the start of the via ferrata.
During progression always keep both carabiners clipped onto the safety cable and when you pass the anchor points make sure at least one is clipped on to each safety cable.
Only one person may be on any length of cable between two anchor points.
Wear clothing suited to the altitude, the season and the length of the route: hiking boots and ferrata gloves to protect you from contact with the metal parts.
Pay special attention on the easy parts where there are no cables.
Always check the condition of the bolts and cables on the wall as they can suffer damage in bad weather. If you even think you see any problems that might compromise safety, turn back and let us know about the situation at .
Always evaluate a few important conditions: the proximity to other crowds, all the gears available and the preservation of the route. Beware, YOU are ultimately and solely responsible for taking this path and the safety rules and features that goes with it.
These instructions are no substitute for the specific courses held by mountaineering associations or professional guides. Unless you have experience doing via ferratas, it is better to go accompanied by a mountain guide.
Emergency number 112.
The information on this chart is subject to inevitable variations, so this means that none of the indications are absolute. It is not entirely possible to avoid giving inexact or imprecise information, given how quickly environmental and weather conditions can change. For this reason, we decline any responsibility for changes which the user may encounter. In any case, the hiker is advised to check the conditions of the places, environment and weather before setting out.
Access
From the roundabout in Sarche follow the road for Madonna di Campiglio for just 50 m, then turn right into a narrow street, which leads to the car park (signposted Via Ferrata). Follow the directions along the trail through the woods, across the base of the Piccolo Dain crag as far as the start of the ferrata marked by a metal plaque.
Ascent
Climb a first vertical wall bolted with cables and at the end of which you canchoose to turn back by taking the bolted trail to the right (1). An exposedtraverse (2) leads to a system of slabs after which you come to a great pillar (3).Head up the pillar, first along the left ridge and then up the centre, until youcome to the log book (4) at the top of the pillar: after this point the route to thesummit is less demanding.
Return
Head north along a steep trail and then a dirt track until you get to thevillage of Ranzo. At the column of San Vigilio take the trail on the leftwhich leads down under the south face of Piccolo Dain. Short sectionsbolted with cables allow you to descend over rocky outcrops and reachthe steep trail which leads down to Sarche.
You can reach Sarche with the bus line "Riva - Sarche - Trento".
Info & timetable: www.gardatrentino.it
Sarche is about 23 kms from Riva del Garda and Torbole, 17 from Arco.
Follow the directions to Trento / SS 45 bis: you pass by Ceniga, Dro and Pietramurata. Once in Sarche, at the roundabout, follow the directions to Madonna di Campiglio / Comano Terme; after 50m, just opposite the gas station, turn right (sign P - Via ferrata Rino Pisetta).
Getting to northern lake Garda: www.gardatrentino.it
technical mountain clothing
hiking boots with Vibram or similar sole
via ferrata gear
harness
helmet
gloves
pickaxe and crampons (when necessary)
a length of rope (recommended)
| Distance | 7,6 km | |
|---|---|---|
| Activity time | 4 h 00 min | |
| Height difference | 423 m |
| Distance | 9,0 km | |
|---|---|---|
| Activity time | 6 h 00 min | |
| Height difference | 841 m |
| Distance | 7,2 km | |
|---|---|---|
| Activity time | 5 h 00 min | |
| Height difference | 522 m |
| Distance | 4,0 km | |
|---|---|---|
| Activity time | 3 h 00 min | |
| Height difference | 1.146 m | |
| Status |
open
|
| Distance | 13,9 km | |
|---|---|---|
| Activity time | 8 h 00 min | |
| Height difference | 1.378 m | |
| Status |
closed
|
| Distance | 5,8 km | |
|---|---|---|
| Activity time | 4 h 00 min | |
| Height difference | 685 m |
