LEAD WORLD CUP
After many years absence the Lead Climbing World Cup returns to Italy for its stage during the Rock Master Festival.
Lead is the queen sport climbing discipline, the athletes tackle an extremely difficult route and the climber who climbs highest wins. Only the greatest champions reach the very top, at the end of the large overhang.
Athletes climb an extremely difficult route and attempt to reach the summit, the top as it is called in climbing terms. Only the strongest manage to clinch the final hold, while all the others fall along the route, held safely by the rope. The climber’s performance equates to the highest point reached.
In the Semifinal and Final athletes climb a route they have never seen before and this is why they are held in an isolation area prior to their turn. The route must be climbed within a certain time limit, 6 minutes in the Qualifications and 8 minutes in the Semifinal and Final.
26 athletes qualify for the Semifinal, 8 proceed to the Final. There is no Superfinal. If athletes are joint-equal count back is used, i.e. the results of the previous rounds are taken into consideration. If stil joint-equal, time is used.
SPEED WORLD CUP
Modern speed climbing was born in Arco in 1988 and since then, every year the vertical sprinters challenge each other up the Climbing Stadium wall. The only factor that counts is speed: a handful of seconds to climb 15 meters to the top, flying from one handhold to the next.
The athletes race against the clock in the qualifications to proceed to the Final. In the rounds that follow they compete in a sort of head-to-head on two identical, parallel routes which result in direct elimination.
The wall and route are always the same, a standard set by the IFSC to compare results and set new world records.
Currently the World record is held by Danyl Boldirev from the Ukraine who stopped the clock after 5”60, and Russia’s Iuliia Kaplina who raced to the top in startling 7″53.
Climbing Stadium 9,00 IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP – qualification male
Climbing Stadium 15,00 IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP – qualification female
Climbing Stadium 9,30 IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP – qualifications
Climbing Stadium 13,30 IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP – semifinals
Climbing Stadium 18,00 IFSC SPEED WORLD CUP – finals
Climbing Stadium 20,00 IFSC LEAD WORLD CUP – finals